Sunday, October 19, 2008

Madrid

It was a blast. My second time into Spain did not disappoint. The first thing you notice there is that people have a different attitude (at least different from France). Everyone is relaxed and happy. The good weather also helped.


We left Paris Beauvais airport when it was still dark. We flew RyanAir, which has gotten mixed reviews, but I thought it was fine. The plane was a new boeing 737, no less than you'd expect from a major airline. I slept through the flight.


When we got to Madrid we checked into our great hostel. It had lockers in the rooms for no charge, included breakfast, clean towels to rent for the shower, and the concierge was especially helpful. After checking in, we went to the nearby Plaza Mayor to eat lunch. It's a big open square surrounded by an old building. There are performers all over Madrid, and this square is no exception. There are performers in costumes, caked in mud standing completely still until you throw a coin in their jar to make them move, violinists and cellists, people playing wine glass rims (picture like 50 glasses filled with different levels of water, performer playing chords and complex melodies like it was any other intstrument). Very cool.


After lunch of spanish meatballs and sangria at Plaza Mayor, we wandered the city and saw some other pretty buildings. The next big thing was the Cathedral, which seems somewhat modern. It was very impressive though, which very high ceilings and colorful paintings everywhere. There was a really impressive shrine to the Virgin Mary that was so decked out in gold and silver you almost have to look away.


We then tried our luck at the Royal Palace, Plaza Réal, but it was closed for some kind of holiday. Eddy told us the inside is fantastic. We'll never know....sad. Cool location though, it overlooks the lower hills outside of Madrid. Good view.


We saw some gardens after that, but we were running on so little sleep that we just had to head back to the hostel and crash for a couple hours. When we got up, we joined a Tapas crawl organized by a company whose job it is to get hostels good online reviews. They did good work, because our guide (for no charge) took us to great tapas bars. In Madrid, a small tapas plate comes with every drink. So snacking and drinking go hand in hand and a great night out is surprisingly inexpensive. We went to some bars on our own afterwards and got a feel for the local nightlife.

The next day we walked down Gran Via, the "Michigan Avenue" of Spain. Pretty cool, lots of shops and offices. At the end there is a pretty government building with a famous fountain in front of it. It features a chariot drawn by lions. It's supposed to be better at night, but I thought it was cool in the day too. Then we saw an old gate to the city that was a little reminiscent of the Arc de Triomph, only smaller. Then we strolled through the Park called "Retiro", which is HUGE. we rowed around in little rowboats on a pond in the park. That was nice except that it rained on us. It was really fun though!

Next stop was the modern art museum called La Reina Sofia. There was some cool cubist stuff there, and a lot of things from the World War I and II years. We saw their most famous piece, Picasso's "Guernica." It was interesting...

I enjoyed the modern art more than I thought I would though. Then we went to the Prado Museum, which is more of the old art. Lots of good religious artwork there. Also some of the famous portraits of "El Greco," and Goya's black paintings. Although it was a relatively quick stop to the Prado (since we had had a long day already), I took a lot from it. I realized how much I am really learning by travelling. Being exposed to all of the art and history really adds another layer to anyone's experience. I feel much more able to talk intelligently about art now.

After some food, we decided to take up Eddy's advice to see a Flamenco show. We tried to have our Concierge book one of the better ones in town, but it was already full. So, we found this 15 Euro show that started in 30 minutes. We got our tickets and we were like... "well, this show might not be as good. It would be better if we had been drinking though." And so, we decided to go around the corner to a bar and down three Sangria's apiece before the show. It was hilarious. Mind you, this is in about 20 minutes. Gulping lip-staining red Sangria and shoveling complementary tapas into our mouths certainly didn't make us stick out like a sore american thumb...at least we were embracing the culture! And we had a Flamenco show to get to!!!

The show was good. I liked it. It lasted about one hour and there was a lot of energy put into the performance. I also realized something absolutely central to the whole spanish...thing. Spain is all about a balance between hard and soft. In a bullfight, the grace and tact of the mateador is juxtaposed against the raw, uncontrollable power of the bull. In Flamenco, the furious and energetic power of shoes hitting against wood floors is countered by the graceful and relaxed arm and torso movements. Seeing hard and soft, power and grace in one coordinated package is very cool, and is probably hard to pull off for the performers. It's very Spanish, from what I've seen.

Since our shuttle was arriving at 3:15 am that night, we decided to save some money and not stay at the hostel that night, but instead stay out. We went to a club called Kapital, on the concierge's recommendation. It was 7 stories! This one club! Lots of bars and lounges with different themes were inside. The main dance floor on the lower level, however, was the highlight. Good music, good sound system, 2 free drinks with the cover. Every once in a while, and very unexpectedly I might add, this jet of cool, damp air would spray at fire-hose speed over the whole dancing group, who unfailingly greeted it with cheers. It wasn't wet, but it wasn't dry. It was more like a cloud machine. It really did take you by surprise, but it would fire when the excitement of the music peaked. It was such a thorough spray that you couldn't even see the people next to you while it was going.

After that, we caught our shuttle to the airport to get back to Paris. We were back home before 8:30 am. Exhausting to say the least. I think we jam-packed about as much as we possibly could into two short days in Madrid. Spain is great though. Definitely worth the trek.

And now, after a miniature week of classes (one cancelled, skipping one) I will be leaving for Charles de Gaulle airport in 5 hours to catch my plane to Vienna. Here's my itinerary for the trip:

Vienna : 3 days, bus to
Prague: 3 days, train to
Berlin: 2 days, fly back home to
Paris

It's gonna be a blast. I'll have my computer, and our hostels have wireless, so hopefully I can get a blog entry or two in at some point. And now I'm going to read about Vienna so I know what I want to visit!

Parents' Visit

I got to play tour guide last week! My parents were in town from Saturday until Saturday, although I flew the coop on Friday for Madrid. It was so fun to have them in town though, and I made sure that they made the most of their time in the city of light.

The first day they were here, they took a mini tour of my life. We saw my apartment on Avenue Daumesnil, and we took the metro up to school so they could see where I sometimes have to go for class. They were a little surprised that the web camera is not an optical illusion that shrinks everything, but that my apartment actually is as small as it seemed on skype. That night, we had dinner in Châtelet, a riverside right bank district near Nôtre Dame. After that, we walked around St. Michel (straight across the river from Nôtre Dame). It was a beautiful night and a great intro to Paris. We saw lots of performers, a man dancing in the midst of crackling fireworks, and a drunk being dragged into the police station by Gendarmes. Good times!

The next morning/afternoon (they were tired!) I picked up a baguette, some Camembert, 1/4 kg of spiced olives, and some very plain but good white wine for a picnic in the Luxembourg Gardens. That was a good plan. You can't go wrong when half of Paris is doing the same thing. We sat for a little while and appreciated the flowers and fountains, systematically devouring our snacks. After the park, we checked by my Irish bar in Odéon, which was not open. Dejected, we went to see the Arc de Triomph to cheer us up. Then we went for a stroll and a snack on the Champs Elysées. That was neat, but it was time to start the journy to Pont d'Alma, where our boat tour was launching from! On our way, we stopped by Trocadero Place for the best view of the Eiffel Tower. Then we walked down the Seine to our tour boat. The tour was beautifiul; the sun had completely set by the end. Our finale was the on the hour disco-ball-esque explosion of sparkles on the Eiffel. I got better pictures this time! Then it was to bed early, because we were going to be up at 6 to catch our very very dependable shuttlebus.

I stayed with the parents that night since there was no other way I could be at their hotel at 6. Besdies, the Pavillon de la Reine is a top-notch hotel, and now I can say that I slept there. After a brief room-service breakfast, we embarked with our tour guide (whose name was not Michel) to Reims, our first stop and home to a fantastic Cathedral and many champagne labels. We took a tour of Mumm, which was very cool. So much goes into the production of Champagne that I didn't know about. There were 25 million bottles of champagne in those cellars too!! We even got to see the remueurs in action, whose job it is to give a quarter or a 1/6 turn to a batch of bottles. They seriously turn bottles for hours, and they do it really fast! The Cathedral at Reims was really cool, maybe cooler than Nôtre Dame. It had great stained glass and a high high nave. Then we went to Epernay, where we had lunch and toured Moët et Chandon, where Dom Perignon is made. Also very cool, although we heard a lot of the same stuff. But at this one, Napoleon was a frequent visitor. It was very cool to think he had walked the same cellars that I was walking.

Then we were done with the tour. And the guide was not back with the car. Very dependable and trustworthy guide rolled back in about an hour and forty-five minutes later, to a cold reception. It's okay though, because the Champagne people let us sit in the Garden where Napoleon and a bunch of kings used to hang out. And they gave us Apricot juice! I would have preferred champagne, but it was a very nice gesture. Our last brief stop was at Châtillon-sur-Marne, where one finds the best panoramic view of Epernay and the surrounds. When we got back into Paris, I had to meet to finish a group project, and then it was off to bed for me.

On Tuesday, we saw Sainte Chappelle. It is an amazing treasure tucked away inside the perimeter of the Ministry of Justice. The interior is just stunning. The lower chapel has really nice restored painted columns and wall art. The upper chapel takes the cake, though. The stained glass is just overwhelming, coating almost the entire wall. It is quite a sight, and one that must be appreciated in person. Definitely a must for anyone visiting Paris. After that, I took my Parents to the area around the Paris Opera for some serious shopping at Galeries Lafayette, the world's first department store. After a little rest, we met for dinner Tuesday at Bistrot Paul Bert. It was a little on the...French side. I'm talking terrine of rabbit, cow cheek, and even cow tongue salad. (?!). Okay, we stepped outside of our comfort zones. Check that off the list.

On Wednesday, I had class all day (1:15-8:00). I only have 3 breaks of 15 minutes in there, so after that I'm usually ready for a beer at the school bar. But instead, I took my parents to my Irish bar (which was open this time!). We had a round of beer, and watched the spectacle that is "blind test night." Here's how it works: a song is played, and the first one to write it down and give it to the bartender gets a free shot. As you can imagine, this can get a little rowdy. It was actually rather tame on this particular occasion, so that's good. During the day they visited the Louvre, and strolled down a street that makes the Champs Elysées look like Shop n' Save. I think they had fun, my mom bought a Longchamp keychain! I like it.

Thursday was my last day with my parents since I headed out for Madrid on Friday morning very early. I had class from 9:00 until 12:00, but after that I met them at their hotel. My mom had found this cool jewelry boutique. Everything was made by hand right there. She found a ring that she liked and got my sister a little something too. It was really cool stuff. Then we went to see the Musée de l'Orangerie, where the huge Monets are housed, along with an impressionist and post-impressionist collection. A pleasant walk through the Tuileries got us there. After that, we walked down the Seine for a little bit. Then it was back to the hotel, where I took an accidental nap.

To cap off our experience, my parents had chosen this restaurant near the Arc de Triomph. It was AMAZING. This place was nice. They served an amuse bouche that was bascially a shot glass of liquidy foie gras with mushroom foam (looked like dish soap bubbles, tasted like sautéed forest mushrooms). It was really good actually. My Dad had a scallop appetizer that looked really good. My Mom had sea bass, I had a whole fish that was breaded, and my dad had a lamb chop I think. Everything was great, and my Dad chose a white burgandy to go with our meal. Dessert was crazy too! Aside from being really good, everything was covered in gold powder/flakes. GOLD! It was crazy, spoons, plates, desserts themselves, sparkling gold. Crazy. A great over-the-top way to celebrate a great trip.

I had a wonderful time with my parents, and I think they really enjoyed themselves too. I had to leave Friday morning, but I'm sure they found something fun or relaxing to do. Maybe some more shopping? That's my guess. I'm just sad they couldn't stay longer!

Once again, I am having issues with the pictures, but they will be up as soon as I can get them up. I might be going to the Paris Autoshow today. Not sure yet, but we'll see. ;-)

Fountain in Jardin du Luxembourg:


Eiffel tower sparkling while lit "EU Blue" (It sparkles on every hour for 5-10 minutes):


Interior of the Cathedral at Reims (It has a higher nave than Nôtre Dame):


Exterior of the Cathedral at Reims:



Magnums of Cordon Rouge aging in the cellars of G.H. Mumm:


Monsieur Perignon in front of Moët et Chandon, admiring his creation:


Mom and Dad standing on the hill in the village of Chatillon sur Marne, with an astounding view of the Champagne region behind:


Beautifully restored interior of the Lower Chapel of Sainte Chapelle, across from Nôtre Dame, nestled within the Ministry of Justice:

The breathtaking stained glass found in the upper chapel of Sainte Chapelle. The picture doesn't do it justice, but it gives you an idea:

Thursday, October 9, 2008

The White Night

Phew! I've been so busy lately I haven't been able to post.

Last weekend was Nuit Blanche (eng. "White Night") in Paris, where all the schools and clubs host parties. All of Paris stays up until the wee hours of the morning partying. I think the museums stay open all night as well. Basically, it's really cool, and ESCP-EAP (my school!) hosts what is supposed to be the biggest party in Paris that night.

Before the party, we had a dinner party that was pretty cool. All different kinds of people that we had met at school or in bars and clubs came over to the girls' house. Me, Amy, Team Texas, Eddy, and Carly all brought or made food for the event. It was a real hit! Everyone got along, and there were some really really different kinds of people there. It was classy too. Jazz in the background, wine, Cointreau (my idea), and all the awesome food that everyone worked so hard on. I made sandwhiches from a baguette. There were like 25 mini sandwhiches. Ham and mayo on one baguette, and Ham and spicy mustard on the other. It was so easy, and also one of the first things to disappear!

After dinner party, we went to the real party. It was at the school itself, and it was pretty awesome. There was a laser and smoke show in the courtyard, a drum squad that did really cool beats, and a couple different places with huge DJ setups. There was even a tower in the courtyard that spit out fire every 30 seconds or so. I saw several people that I know from class or handball. It's cool to start seeing familiar faces, I guess I'm really settling in a bit.

We did our share of dancing, and left when the metro opens at 5:30 or so. All in all it was a good night.

Other than that, on Tuesday night, we went to a party for Dauphine, another business school in the Paris area. We knew about it because of a french girl that Victor and Eddy and I met a couple weeks ago, Chloe. She was helping to organize the party and made sure we were there. It was at an Irish bar, although not "my" Irish bar in Odéon. It was in Châtelet, which is very centrally located. There was a bartender there named Franck from Spain who spoke perfect English, though with an Irish accent. He lived in Ireland for 3 years. The bartenders at Irish bars are always so interesting...

I sent in my first assignment for school this morning, which was to briefly analyze to brands that are "invariants plastiques," meaning that they define themselves in relation to each other. Examples include IBM and Apple, Sony and Microsoft, etc. I did Pepsi and Coke.

We finally have solid plans for fall break!! I'm so excited. We're doing Vienna, Prague, and Berlin. Does that not sound amazing? We fly into Vienna (booked), train to Prague (not yet booked), train from Prague to Berlin (booked), and fly from Berlin back to Paris (booked). This all happens in the span of a week or so, we have 2 days in Berlin and 3 in the other two locations. The travel and hotel expenses combined are going to come out to about 350 Euros. If you don't know, that's a bargain. We did our homework.

The pictures from the dinner party and ESCP party are really cool, especially the pictures we got of the laser show. I'm having trouble posting them right now though, so you'll have to wait on those. Sorry!

There is another ESCP party tonight (DO THEY EVER STOP!?!?!). This one is free though for students. Free entry. Free drinks. I'm there.